Idiyappam’s journey from the ancient streets of Tamilakam to the kitchens of Sri Lanka, Southeast Asia, and beyond is a story of resilience and adaptation.
Idiyappam, the energy-packed, steam-cooked dish, is delicious and delightful. It is yummy and filled with all the goodness that kickstarts your day. However, it is more than just a meal. It’s a glimpse into the history, culture, and traditions of South India and beyond.
This simple yet flavorful dish made from rice flour and steamed into delicate noodles has travelled across centuries, reflecting the shared culinary roots of communities in India, Sri Lanka, and Southeast Asia.
A steaming plate of Idiyappam, often paired with rich coconut chutney or a spicy curry, may seem like a modern breakfast dish to some, but it has deep roots in the ancient food cultures of southern India. Known by different names like noolputtu, noolappam, and chomai, it’s a dish beloved across various regions, yet its journey begins in the southern tip of India.
The rice flour is carefully kneaded into soft strings and then shaped into small spools before being steamed to perfection. Its texture is light and tender, yet its flavour is rich, making it a popular choice for both breakfast and dinner.
In Sri Lanka, the dish takes on a slightly different character. In the northern and eastern parts of the island, Idiyappam is served with a sweet twist—sugar, fresh coconut, and sometimes even banana are sprinkled on top.
The savoury version, however, is more commonly enjoyed in southern India, particularly in Tamil Nadu, where it is often paired with spicy chutneys or vegetable curries, adding a zesty complement to the soft, neutral flavour of the rice noodles. The versatility of Idiyappam, whether sweet or savoury, speaks to the adaptability of this ancient dish, with each region putting its own spin on it.
But where did this humble dish come from? The history of Idiyappam is steeped in the rich culinary traditions of southern India. For centuries, the region has been a melting pot of cultures, thanks to its strategic location along ancient trade routes.
The early trade connections between southern India, Sri Lanka, and Southeast Asia set the stage for the spread of rice-based dishes like Idiyappam. These trade routes were bustling with merchants and travellers, all exchanging goods, ideas, and, of course, food.
Idiyappam’s origins can be traced back to Tamilakam, the ancient Tamil kingdom that spanned much of what is now southern India. Here, rice was not just a staple; it was a symbol of prosperity. The cultivation of rice was central to the economy and daily life.
The Sangam literature, a collection of ancient Tamil texts, offers a glimpse into the culinary practices of this time. In these texts, there are references to dishes like appam, a close relative of Idiyappam. These foods were sold by vendors at the bustling markets along the seashores, where the aroma of fresh rice dishes filled the air.
The presence of rice-based foods like Idiyappam in Tamil literature shows how deeply embedded rice was in the culture of ancient Tamil society. One poem from the Purananuru, a famous Tamil literary work, describes a prosperous city filled with lush rice fields, buzzing bees, and streets paved with gold.
Another poem from the era praises the king who transformed barren forests into fertile paddy fields, further emphasising the central role of rice in the prosperity of Tamilakam. The imagery in these poems reveals a society that not only valued rice as a food source but also saw it as a symbol of abundance and wealth.
Despite its ancient origins, the spread of Idiyappam across the region can be attributed to the maritime trade routes that connected Tamilakam to distant lands. The Tamil kingdoms, with their powerful naval fleets, established trade networks that reached as far as Southeast Asia. These exchanges allowed for the flow of not just goods, but cultural practices as well. Dishes like Idiyappam travelled along these routes, finding new homes in Sri Lanka and beyond.
While the Portuguese arrived in India in the late fifteenth century, it’s important to note that Idiyappam and similar rice-based dishes predated their arrival by centuries. The Portuguese were not responsible for introducing these dishes; rather, they were already a part of the Indian culinary landscape, passed down through generations of Tamil traders and settlers.
The connections between southern India and Sri Lanka go back as far as the 3rd century BCE, as evidenced by ancient inscriptions found on the island. These inscriptions, written in Tamil-Brahmi script, tell the story of Tamil merchants and settlers who were deeply involved in trade and cultural exchange along Sri Lanka’s southern coast. This cultural exchange likely played a significant role in introducing Idiyappam to Sri Lanka, where it was embraced and adapted to local tastes.
The Tamil influence on Sri Lankan cuisine is undeniable. Archaeological findings, including ancient coins inscribed with Tamil names, suggest that Tamil settlers were present in Sri Lanka as early as the second century BCE. The exchange between the two regions laid the foundation for the spread of culinary traditions like Idiyappam. Over the centuries, this dish found its way into the hearts and kitchens of Sri Lanka, where it remains a popular comfort food today.
The maritime prowess of the Chera, Chola, and Pandya dynasties further propelled the spread of Tamil culture across South and Southeast Asia. These powerful dynasties not only dominated trade but also expanded their cultural influence far beyond the southern tip of India.
The Cholas, for example, embarked on naval expeditions that reached Southeast Asia, bringing with them their language, art, and culinary practices. As Tamil culture spread across these regions, so did their food traditions, including Idiyappam.
In modern times, Idiyappam continues to be a beloved dish in many parts of the Indian Ocean world. Whether it’s served in the bustling streets of Chennai or the tranquil towns of Sri Lanka’s coast, the dish has evolved, yet its essence remains the same.
Today, it connects people across borders, a testament to the enduring appeal of rice as a foundational food. It is a dish that links generations, drawing from the rich history of trade, migration, and cultural exchange.
Idiyappam’s journey from the ancient streets of Tamilakam to the kitchens of Sri Lanka, Southeast Asia, and beyond is a story of resilience and adaptation. It is a dish that reflects the region’s rich culinary heritage, shaped by centuries of cultural exchange and innovation. From the ancient trade routes to the modern-day plates of families, Idiyappam continues to bring people together, offering a taste of history with every bite.
Source: Madras Courier
